ST. GEORGE'S PARISH
It's a nice walk from
the ship through town and up a hill to the bay (just over a mile) where you'll find two
beaches--Tobacco Bay and St. Catherine's. Stop along the
way to see the Unfinished Church. You'll also pass what was once a very impressive landmark from the cruise ships
coming into St. George's...the
former Club Med (which opened as the Holiday Inn in 1973, later Loews, then
Club Med).
I took these photos of the old 400-room Club Med that had
been abandoned for years on my last visit to St. George's. Surrounding
the hotel was a beautiful golf course.
Until August 25, 2008
this
very big, shuttered-up building high on a hill across from Fort St.
Catherine Beach -- with its gorgeous
land and sea views
-- was the dominant landmark in the area. But it had a troubled history.
Abandoned since 1989, it was finally demolished to make way for a new Park
Hyatt Hotel Resort with a $294 million price tag. The
property will be managed by Hyatt and the complex will include
a 200-room hotel as well as 140 condos, some of which will be available for
hotel guests, and 40 fractional ownership units. It will also include
swimming pools, tennis courts, five restaurants, bars and an 18-hole golf
course designed by champion golfer Nick Faldo.
It will not fully reopen probably until at least
2012. The government has confirmed the new course will be taken out of state
hands and run (although will still be owned by the government) by Addax
Holdings Ltd. for Bazarian International, the same developers as
the Park Hyatt hotel.
But it is stipulated that the developer must ensure that the
golf course remains accessible to the public during such times and on such
reasonable terms and conditions as shall be approved by the government.
August 25, 2008 at 10 AM the huge building shown above was finally imploded, recorded on
television by LookTV-Bermuda. A sad ending to a
beautiful landmark--I shall miss seeing it as we cruise into St. George's!
WATCH THE IMPLOSION:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=WcOvlExpz7w
Tobacco Bay.
Picturesque
Tobacco Bay is a beautiful, shallow, sheltered beach with
unusual rock formations all around which makes it an excellent place to snorkel.
It's facilities include a deck dining area (which specializes in
local cuisine), a beer and wine bar, a gift shop and braiding services.
Tobacco Bay also rents snorkel gear, umbrellas and loungers to make your day
comfortable and fun. Public
restrooms are also here for your convenience.
Wading through the clear, shallow water, you
will see schools of small fish swim quickly past your feet. While
maneuvering closer to the many rock formations that surround the cove, you
will be amazed by larger, more colorful creatures dawdling below. The
shallow water at Tobacco Bay makes the area perfect for children.
Amazing rock formations jut out of the water at every turn. The beach is
pretty small by American beach standards, so it draws a large crowd --
especially when cruise ships are in port
St. Catherine's Beach.
If this rocky cove is not to your liking, head over to St.
Catherine's Beach, a more traditional sunning beach but with fewer
conveniences.
Just up the road, St. Catherine's Beach with the
fort in the background.
.
St. Catherine's Fort with golf course in
background.
In 1612 Bermuda’s
first governor, Richard Moore, arrived here from England with
sixty settlers aboard the Plough. Moore, a carpenter by trade,
built a wooden fort here to defend Bermuda from the Spaniards.
Since then, Fort St. Catherine, the first of numerous forts on
Bermuda, has been rebuilt several times, with most of the
current structure dating from the late 19th century.
Today, the fort houses a museum and is one of Bermuda’s most
impressive structures. The powder magazine is home to a
collection of antique weapons and in the old artillery store
there is a gallery of three-dimensional life-size scenes
depicting Bermuda’s history. Also on display are replicas
of the British Crown Jewels and an audiovisual presentation on
the forts of St George’s. The fort is surrounded by a dry moat
and accessed by a drawbridge. Admission $5 adults, $2 children
under 12. Fort St
Catherine closed in February 2009; for repairs and improvements.
It is expected to reopen in mid-June.
If you get thirsty or
hungry or just want to go for a swim, Blackbeard's Hideout ( a pub/restaurant
is right next to the fort.)
Gate's Fort.
As
you enter through the Town Cut into St. George by cruise ship you'll see an
old fort to your right--actually it was an outpost. Gate's Fort is a
mile east of the town of St. George along the coastal road called the Cut
Road, in case you feel like walking there. It is a pretty isolated
area, but you get a good view of the Cut from land-- and some great
pictures.
A
small-scale, partially ruined two-story watchtower is capped with a cannon
that (symbolically) monitors the entrance to St. George's harbor. With an
interior of only two square angular rooms, it was originally built in 1609
by its namesake, Sir Thomas Gates. Gates, was one of the original band of
settlers from the Sea Venture who colonized Bermuda and later became
Governor of Jamestown, Virginia. There's virtually nothing to see
inside.
All that
is left here is an old cannon... and a little dog who followed me down to
the water and barked and barked at the waves hitting the rocks!
DINING IN ST.
GEORGE'S
There are a number of nice restaurants and cafes
within the town.
Carriage House.
Address: Somers Wharf, Water
St., St. George's,
Typical hearty British fare is
served at the Carriage
House located in the restored Somers Wharf area.
If you are lucky enough to get a
table outside on the patio or inside by a window you can watch the action on
the harbor. This is the place to
order roast prime rib, cut
to order tableside, or rack of
lamb with rosemary. Don't
overlook the fresh Bermuda fish,
like pan-fried wahoo or rockfish
in lemon-butter sauce. Sunday the Carriage House lays out a generous brunch
buffet that includes champagne, while a pianist plays background music.
Cafe Gio.
Address: 36 Water St. St.
George's
This family-friendly restaurant near the Tucker
House, occupies a small but brightly colored
storefront whose rear opens onto an outdoor
terrace with a view out over St. George's
historic harbor. The cafe is an all-purpose
family-friendly venue that includes a
cubbyhole-size ice-cream parlor near the
entrance, and a tutti-frutti colored dining room
with a menu of pizzas and tried-and-true
international specialties. No one will mind if
you opt just for a pizza or some ice cream, but
if you're in the mood for a full meal, starters
include Bermuda fish chowder, or crisp calamari.
Main courses include char-grilled Angus
strip loin steak and garlic mashed potatoes, or
pan seared fillet of salmon. The vibe here is
informal.
White Horse Tavern.
Address: 8 King's Sq., St. George's
The oldest
tavern in St. George is the most popular in Bermuda; it's always
jammed with visitors. Step back in time with the help of this
restaurant's rustic 1600s feel. The former Merchant's Hall, the
harbor-side building is overflowing with history. Try the Crab
Paradise or Bermuda Onion for an appetizer, then the "Bermuda
Triangle," which mixes up rockfish, snapper, and wahoo. If
you're sitting on the terrace, watch out for the hungry fish
waiting for food scraps. Tables get snapped up when the cruise
ships are in. It's also a popular nightspot with guest DJs at
weekends.
The George & Dragon.
Address: 3 King's Sq., St. George's
There's something for everyone here, with a
sports bar downstairs and a restaurant upstairs
with adjacent balcony and a deli (which is great
for takeout). This restored 18th-century
building overlooks King's Square and suits
diners on a variety of budgets. You can come for
sandwiches and English pub fare, such as fish
and chips or shepherd's pie. The more formal
areas inside serve some very expensive fish
dishes, mostly based on the catch of the day.
Linen tablecloths and subdued lighting at night
enhance the elegant atmosphere. Portions are
very large. The salads, including avocado,
Caesar, chef's, Greek, Mexican, and seafood, are
among the best in St. George.
SHOPPING IN ST.
GEORGES
Shopping for Souvenirs.
We pretty
much have covered most of the things to "not
miss seeing" in the Square--except for
shopping. Although Hamilton is the
holy grail of Bermuda's famed duty-free
shopping — St. George's has some unique
shops, too. Some of the shops here are
clones of Hamilton stores, selling the same
items at the same prices. Others offer
specialty items or the works of a particular
artist or crafter. All are worth a look, if
only to peer into nooks and crannies of the
old buildings that house them. Things
to look for:
Cedar is a symbol of the island
which is now scarce, expensive and highly
sought after as a souvenir. But you'll be
able to find some
boxes, plaques,
bookends and other lovely wooden craft
pieces
whose grain and aroma
will always bring back memories of your stay
in Bermuda. Also look for
dolls dressed in
Gombey costume
and
dolls made from preserved local banana
leaves.
Other island symbols that are often seen as
charms, ornaments, necklaces or interpreted
in paintings include the
Bermuda long tail,
the bird
that announces the arrival of spring; the
round moon
gate that
became popular in Bermuda during the clipper
ship era;
perfumes
made from Bermuda blooms; and
Bermuda honey,
flavored with Bermuda's own mix of local
floral.
On
Water Street, there is
A.S. Cooper
FRANGIPANI, where you will find fresh
produce items, along with other unique
fashions, accessories, straw hats and
handbags. Perfect for the beach, sightseeing
or just for fun. Further down Water Street
is one of the branch stores for
A.S. Cooper
& Sons Ltd.
Look no
further than
The Carole Holding Shop
in St.
George's. beautiful lithographs in a host of
sizes and options (rolled in a tube, matted
or framed and ready to hang on the wall).
Tea towels, linen placemats, aprons and much
more along with Carole's own jams,
marmalades or one of the best rum cakes on
the island, all originally developed in
Carole's kitchen. And not to be missed are
Carole's new perfumed soaps inspired by the
fragrance of Bermuda's flowers.
E.R. Aubrey
Jewelers Ltd.
is an authority on tanzanite,
with the largest selection of tanzanite on
the island. They specialize in colored
gemstones, including alexandrite, emeralds,
fire opals and sapphires and the popular
Bermuda Lucky Stone. Don't miss their large
collection of shipwreck treasure coins.
The English
Sports Shop
has a branch store in St. George
with a wide variety of items available. From
classic colorful Bermuda shorts and blazers
to an array of knitwear in cotton, wool and
cashmere, the store offers an opportunity
for a unique, fashionable souvenir of your
visit.
The Island Shop
is a "must" visit for unique ceramic and
linen products, all designed by Barbara Finsness.
Vera P. Card,
located at 7 and 20 Water Street in St.
George, offers jewelry, watches, figurines,
crystal, clocks and gifts from around the
world at duty-free prices.
Bermuda Perfumery & Gardens.
Address: 5 Queen St.
In 2005 the perfumery moved from Bailey's Bay
in Smith's Parish, where it had been based since
1928, to historic Stewart Hall. Although the
location changed, the techniques it uses did
not: the perfumery still manufactures and
bottles all its island-inspired scents on-site
using essential oils extracted from frangipani,
jasmine, oleander, and passion flower. Guides
are available to explain the entire process, and
there's a small museum that outlines the
company's history. You can also wander around
the gardens and stock up on your favorite
fragrances in the showroom. Cost: Free Open: Nov.-Mar., Mon.-Sat. 10-4;
Apr.-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 9-5.
LODGING IN
ST. GEORGES
Aunt Nea's
Address:
1 Nea's Alley between Printer's Alley and Old
Maid's Lane., St. George's
"Ensuite baths"...usually means a room
with an adjoining or attached bath--
but our rooms at Aunt Nea's were"IN bath
suites"-- (a bath in a room .. at the foot of each bed!
Not for the self-conscious or timid - but
purposeful! But that's what makes Aunt Nea's--fun and unique!
Breakfast on the veranda was
my favorite. The views were extraordinary.
Aunt Nea’s Inn is a charming Bermuda bed and
breakfast which takes its name from the ‘Odes to
Nea’; a volume of romantic verse by
Nineteenth-century Irish poet Thomas Moore who
stayed here for a short while in 1804 and put
quill to paper in admiration of Nea Tucker, a
young woman living next door to the Inn.
This makes Aunt Nea’s one of Bermuda’s most
romantic properties.
Aunt Nea’s is the only true B&B that was built
200 years ago and is one of only two B&B choices
for in St. Georges Parish. Since it is a rather
intimate place, it is appealing to travelers who
want a unique atmosphere
and are looking for more of a personal
experience than the big faceless resorts.
Aunt Nea's Inn boasts three types of
accommodations among its 17 rooms; a
standard guest room, a one-bedroom suite, or a
two-bedroom suite. It is a fairly small
property, featuring 2 floors, some found in the
18th-century main house and others next door.
All rooms are
uniquely
furnished with
antiques and include
luxurious and
unparalleled
four-poster,
canopy or sleigh beds. Tray ceilings with
exposed cedar beams, a classic feature of early
Bermudian architecture, give Aunt Nea’s Inn a
genuine historic atmosphere. All have
telephones, air conditioning, cable TV and
private bathroom. The Inn operates a no smoking
policy throughout.
Proprietors Delaey Robinson and
Andrea Dismont have created a homely
ambience. Guests take continental
breakfast at a large dining table
and enjoy fresh fruit, muffins,
scones and tea. Those seeking a
little more peace and solitude can
enjoy theirs on the upper veranda.
Owner(s): Delaey (Deloy) Robinson & Andrea Dismont
Open Since: 1961
Accept: American Express, Visa, Mastercard and Checks
Price Range: US$$160 - $350 (US Dollars)
Aunt Nea's Website:
HERE
Aunt Nea's Email:
HERE
St. George's Club.
Address:
6 Rose Hill, St. George's
This 71-cottage
time-share complex overlooks the bay and town looks and feels
like a 1990s condo community. It's the closest thing to a modern
hotel room in St. George's. (Aunt Nea's guesthouse is the only
other lodging choice in this corner of the island.) The grounds
are tidy, ample, and perched high above St. George's.
The sleek,
three-story main building holds the lobby, business center, a
convenience store, and two restaurants: Griffin's, serving
contemporary food, and Blackbeard's Hideout Beach Club (a
summer-only pub near Tobacco Bay public beach and the golf
course). Very expensive, but very nice units: living room,
kitchen, bath, bedroom. Many units are right on the golf course
with a view of the sea in the distance.
The apartments are either one or two bedrooms, well apportioned
with individual bath/shower and toilet. The kitchens are compact
and functional (only one person in the kitchen area at a time)
and the lounge seating area is pleasant with tiled flooring. The
patio/balcony areas are covered with a pagoda style effect with
patio furniture.
Note: Abutting
St. George's Golf Course. The St. George Golf Club is
currently closed for extensive renovations. However,
arrangements have been made for guests staying at St. George's
Club to use the course at Riddell's Bay Golf and Country Club.
Website:
HERE
E-mail:
HERE
Checking out St. George's Club
We climbed up a lot of stairs.....and didn't realize how many until we
looked back down
But the view was spectacular from the top of Rose Hill. The
flags: Union Jack, Canadian, Bermudian and American... and our ship in the
harbor below.
