Bonaire is thirty miles from Curacao; 50 miles north of Venezuela and 86 miles east of Aruba, outside of the Caribbean hurricane belt. Its highest elevation is Brandaris Hill, 784 feet. Yearly average temperature is 82°F ; water temperature of 80°FC; rainfall of 22 inches; humidity of 76%. Sunny, all year round.
HISTORY
Among the first to land on Bonaire were two Spaniards, Alonso de Ojeda and Amerigo Vespucci.
However, they soon realized that there was neither gold
nor sufficient rainfall to encourage large-scale agricultural production, so
Spain saw very little reason to develop the colony. By 1515, Bonaire had been mostly depopulated.
In 1526, Juan de Ampues, governor of Bonaire, Curacao, and Aruba, began to
raise cattle on the island. He brought in a number of Caiquetios natives and some
Indians from Venezuela as laborers, and within a few years cows, sheep,
goats, pigs, donkeys, and horses were being raised on the island. Valued
only for their hides, the animals needed little tending
and were generally let loose to wander freely around the island. Before long
they greatly outnumbered the human inhabitants, and today the island counts
substantial populations of donkeys and goats among its wildlife.
Over the next few centuries, few of the island's
inhabitants were to arrive willingly. Bonaire's next immigrants were mostly
convicts from the Spanish colonies in South America. For much of the next 300 years,
even after the island was ceded to the Dutch, Bonaire remained a notorious
penal colony.
In 1633, the Dutch, having lost the island of St.
Maarten to the Spanish, retaliated by capturing Curacao, Bonaire, and Aruba.
While Curacao emerged as a center of the slave trade, Bonaire became a
plantation of the Dutch West India Company.
A small number of African slaves
were put to work cultivating dyewood and maize and harvesting solar salt
around Blue Pan. They were joined by the few remaining Indians and convicts.
Slave quarters, rising no higher than a man's waist and built entirely of
stone, still stand in the area around Rincon and along the saltpans as a
grim reminder of Bonaire's repressive past.
GEOGRAPHY
The island is 24 miles long and 5 miles wide, and only 112 square miles of land mass; virtually barren of flowers, palm trees, or, for that matter, much greenery at all. But Bonaire is where divers, snokelers and scuba divers go to witness what they heard heaven is like. Few people besides these fervent divers have ever even heard of this island, much less know where it is. But Bonaire is a place that actually doubles your visual world, adding an entire new physical plane--underwater. As unattractive as she might be above the waterline, it is resplendent and sensual below. The visibility within Bonaire's clear turquoise water is extraordinary. And the living reefs and walls around the island tower and teem with a magnificent variety of coral, sponge, creature and fish species; due mostly to the fact that the water around Bonaire is an official marine park. Spear fishing was banned years ago as was shell and coral collecting. And this makes snorkeling here a truly unforgettable experience!
Most of the 14,000 residents speak English, plus Dutch, some Spanish and a dialect called Papiamento, a blend of Dutch and Spanish. Dutch ex-pats and a working class of largely Venezuelan and Colombian immigrants comprise most of the population. There is little crime to speak of, no language barrier, and the population, regardless of nationality, is well educated and middle-class.
CURRENCY
Netherlands Antilles florin guilder (NAf1.79 to US$1); exchange rates are accurate at this writing but are subject to change. There's no real need to convert your American dollars into the local currency. U.S. currency and traveler's checks are accepted everywhere. You can spend dollars here, but will likely receive your change in guilders.
DOCKING
Kralendijk (crawl-in-dyke), Bonaire's capital, is known locally as Playa, but that doesn't mean it has a beach—there is no sand to speak of in the town. Instead, it is a miniscule waterfront city, that resembles a façade-like movie set -- a few rows of terraced red tile-roofed buildings along the waterfront, with virtually nothing of interest behind. Within the two or three waterfront blocks are a few low-rise buildings painted in pretty pastel colors and a handful of narrow streets. Here, the town consists of the island's government buildings and some shops, hotels, restaurants and bars. There's not much to do or see on Kralendijk, other than shop or dine at the restaurants. The town's couple of historical buildings and small cultural museum won't take more than an hour or two of your time in Kralendijk to explore.
When your cruise ship docks in Kralendijk, you're actually in town and within walking distance of all the town's attractions. There is no cruise terminal. Your cruise ship will tie up at one of two piers--North or South Pier. If you are in the mood to get your feet on solid ground again, there is Wilhelmina Park, a pleasant place to relax under big, shady trees and enjoy the cool breezes as you gaze across the water at Klein Bonaire. The park has a monument to Queen Wilhelmina, and a plaque commemorating the time in the 1940s when Eleanor Roosevelt visited American troops stationed on Bonaire. Around town you will come upon Dutch colonial houses, the Museo Boneriano and Fort Oranje which will give you a glimpse into the island's past. The small Fort Oranje was erected to guard against attacks. It housed the island's commander until 1837, when it became a government depot and then a prison. Later, in 1868, a small lighthouse was built near Fort Oranje.
Main street Waterfront flea market
If you get tired of people-watching at Wilhelmina Square you can shop at Harborside Mall. There are a few dozen restaurants along the waterfront promenade. Supermarkets include Cultimara (in downtown Kralendijk) or Warehouse (located on the way to the airport from town). Near the Town Pier, Venezuelan merchants have a Roman-style covered pavilion where you can find fresh produce, especially fish, fruit and vegetables.
GETTING AROUND
Off the coast of Kralendijk lies the uninhabited island of Klein Bonaire, a diving and snorkeling paradise. It can be reached by water taxi, a 10-minute boat ride away. This little sister island to Bonaire was purchased from its owners and given to the people of the island to remain in perpetuity as an undeveloped area. The funds to purchase the island came from both public and private sources. The island has a number of dive and snorkel sites that will be preserved for the enjoyment and pleasure for generations to come.
TAXIS
Taxis line up every time a cruise ship arrives, but if you're staying in Kralendijk you can get around fine with just your two feet. If you are headed out of town, taxis cost from $5 for nearby destinations to $20 or more if you're headed across the island. It might be cheaper to rent a car, as rates begin at about $35 a day. Rental agencies are in the airport near Kralendijk. Fares are fixed, but agree to a fare beforehand.
Sightseeing Tours by taxi go for around $25 per hour for up to 4 people.
RENTAL CARS
US, Canadian, and European driver licenses are valid
for use on the island. Be careful of the goats, donkeys and pedestrians that
roam the island's roads. All traffic keeps to the right, and international
highway signs are used. Speed limit is 40 km per hour (25 mph) in town and
60 km to 80 km per hour (38-50 mph) in the countryside.
WHAT TO SEE
Bonaire is a small island with only a few tour companies, all used by the cruise ships. So it might make more sense to book one of the tours organized by your ship. When 2-3 ships are in, the island is overcrowded. Unless you know what you are doing and where you are going, it will be frustrating getting around-- so it is wise to plan ahead if you are not taking the ship's excursion and book your taxi before you get here.
Here are some of the sights to see on a taxi tour:
NORTH TOUR
1000 Steps:
This is one of the numerous, popular dive and snorkel sites of Bonaire. Situated on the northern side of the island, a cliff face drops off into the sea. But the handy stairs allow you easy access to the water. Gear up at the parking area on the street and make the easy walk down the stairs to the beach and into the water. 1000 Steps can be reached either by boat or car. There's actually only 67 steps to get down to the beach -- but it may feel like 1000 when you make your way up with all your gear after a dive.
Alta Mira: Visitors and locals alike often overlook this spot. Alta Mira Unjo is
charming area that has stone benches and walls where you can sit and enjoy
the constant trade winds and breathtaking view. From this point visitors can
see both the windward and leeward side of Bonaire in one panoramic sweep.
Look for the sign on the north side of the road leading to Rincon. The bumpy
ride is worth taking!
The Land House Karpata was the mainhouse of a plantation that grew aloe and divi divi trees. It was restored and used as a research center for a number of years. Presently, the complex is being used for a substance abuse treatment center.
Flamingos on Salt Lake at Goto Mee
Enjoy Bonaire’s turquoise waters along the coast. Heading north, stop for a picnic at Gotomeer, Bonaire's land-locked saltwater lake, with a possible sneak peak of the flamingos in the lake below. If you are looking for a "Kodak Moment," you'll find it here. Goto Meer is a favorite among Bonaire's abundant (and skittish) flamingo population, which gathers on this salt lake to consume the brine shrimp, brine fly and larvae which endows these great birds with their rosy hue. Like Salina Slagbaai, another of the salt ponds of Bonaire's Washington-Slagbaai National Park, Goto Meer becomes a veritable sea of pink during the January-July breeding season. This beautiful viewing spot looks over the lake towards the National Park. This is also a good place to take pictures of the flamingos as they often feed or sleep close to the road. Did you know? A group of flamingos is called a "pat" or a colony. Flamingo hatchlings are grey, but turn pink as they get older due to their diet of brine shrimp at the salt ponds.
The island, dry and laden with cactus, is never-the-less tropical, with more than 340 species of flora. Stunning Washington National Park is where many species of birds can be seen. This 13,500 acre park occupies a substantial portion of the island's northern tip and is filled with the fascinating flora and fauna of semi-arid Bonaire. In its own way Washington-Slagbaai is as much a gem as Bonaire's more celebrated Marine Park, with more than a hundred species of birds, a startling variety and diversity of terrain and wildlife.
Located on the sheltered leeward coast of Washington-Slagbaai National Park, Nukove is one of the island's most pleasant diving and snorkeling sites. Park visitors need only wade offshore to encounter brilliant, swirling schools of reef fish, including parrotfish and blue tangs . To relax, there is an intimate and inviting little white sand beach.
Be amazed at the oasis of lush vegetation at Dos Pos. The name means two wells and is located on the road from Goto Lake to Rincon. Note the fruit plantation and how many fruit trees can be identified.
Northwest of Kralendijk is Bonaire's oldest village, Rincon, first settled
by the Spanish. Many of Bonaire's cultural events take place in and around
Rincon. On the first Saturday of each month, a local market is set up where
visitors can sample local food and purchase souvenirs created by many of the
talented artists of the island.
When
the Spanish founded Rincon, around the turn of
the fifteenth century, they laid their foundations slightly inland to
escape the roving eyes and ship-board cannons of passing buccaneers. Slaves
from Africa, brought over by the Spanish, were also housed here. Today the
town is an entrancing collage of pastel cottages. The Saint Peter's Day
celebration is held here June 28.The village of Rincon provides a great
stopping place for
refreshments and local treats.
A leisurely walk around Rincon, will tell you that it has the highest goat population on the island! The people are very friendly here and some of the homes are very old. Stop at Rose Inn for a refreshing cold drink and see many birds feeding in the garden.
Later stop at Onima to see the Indian Petroglyphs in a limestone cave which served as both shelter and artist's canvas for the island's Caiquetio inhabitants. There are a number of locations where primitive rock drawings can be found. The most visible are located opposite Boka Onima. The drawings, whose ages are yet to be determined remain undeciphered, were thought to be made by the Caiqueto Indians, an Arawak Indian tribe. The drawings are similar to ones found in caves in South American.
Another scenic overlook, Seru Largo (long hill) is just north of the barrio of Nort Saliña. Daytime visitors are treated to a view of Kralendijk, Klein Bonaire and the major resort area. This is one of the best spots for photographers from where, Klein Bonaire, Kralendijk, Lac Bay, the salt company, and more can be seen.
SOUTH TOUR
The Donkey Sanctuary is a
non-profit foundation, founded in order to improve the living conditions of
the donkeys on Bonaire. The Donkey Sanctuary is a nice park for the whole
family to enjoy.
On arrival at the park, you will be greeted by the
wonderful animals who toiled alongside the slaves in the misery of the
salt pans. The Donkey Sanctuary takes
care of donkeys that are old, orphaned or injured (usually by cars). If you
stop by, you can feed and pet the donkeys, and your donation
will help care for them. In the old days, donkeys were used to haul the salt to the ships to be exported abroad. Today, donkeys wander the island freely, though food and water is scarce. The Donkey Help Foundation helps orphaned donkeys and donkeys needing medical attention, and strives to improve the lives of all donkeys on Bonaire. You can visit the Donkey Sanctuary Tuesdays thru Sundays from 10:00AM to 4:00PM..
Cargill Salt Company:
Bonaire did have
one precious commodity in great abundance--salt, which was a necessary
ingredient for preserving meat and fish before refrigeration.
Today, it has a market for use in water softeners, and of course, our
Northerners know it is used to help make their lives easier navigating the
slippery road conditions in winter.
Salt production has been a major industry on Bonaire for more than 350
years and Cargill, Inc. has been operating the salt production since 1997. These wonderful mountains of white salt crystals can be
seen on the southern part of the island. Bonaire affectionately refers to
them as the Bonairean Alps. Salt container ships line up at the pier,
loading their valuable cargo which is shipped all over the world.
So find a comfortable seat on a dune by the salt flats and watch the salt being loaded by conveyer belt onto a freighter. The salt is loaded at a rate of 2,000 tons per hour. Fallen salt crystals can be found and kept as a souvenir. On the inland side of the island, before you reach the salt hills, you will see several shallow bogs. These bogs range in color from green, to brownish, to near pink.
These are the salt pans where sea water is released from the sea. The water evaporates, leaving salt behind. The different colors represent the stages of evaporation with the pinkish one being the final stage.
The four obelisks were erected near the
Salt Lake to help ships find their way in to the dock to load up on the
spice.
Cargill also maintains Pink
Beach as a resource for all of Bonaire and its visitors to relax,
dive and snorkel.
Pink Beach is the longest
beach on the island and so named because the crushed coral washed on shore
by the waves was pulverized into the fine pink sand. It is very popular for
swimming and sunning. Snorkeling and diving are possible here, however you
need to swim out a fair distance from shore. This beach was featured on the
cover of Caribbean Travel and Life magazine as one of the best in the
Caribbean.
Pink Beach
Lac Bay
(Lac Bay is packed when the cruise ships come)
Lac Bay is a windsurfer's paradise, with steady winds and smooth,
clear, and conveniently shallow waters. Although Lac Bay is located
on the windward side of Bonaire, its encircling arms protect the
waters within and create a range of conditions that are as ideal for
beginners as for intrepid windsurfing virtuosi. Windsurf
equipment and kayaks are available for rent here. Lessons for beginners and
advanced windsurfers also can be arranged.
Lac-Cai
Beach
This is a popular spot among locals and visitors, especially on weekends
when there is music and local food. At Lac-Cai the sea is shallow and calm,
which makes it a great place for kids and adults alike. Lac-Cai also is a
great place to kayak through the mangroves while observing the birds in that
area
Sorobon Beach:
Bonaire's highly-regarded naturalist
(clothing optional)
resort turns away sightseers, but day trippers can get
an all over tan for a U.S $15 day entry fee. Sorobon Beach also has some of
the best protected windsurfing in the Caribbean.
Willemstoren
Lighthouse:
This historical lighthouse marks the southernmost point of the island. The lighthouse keeper's residence, awaiting restoration, can be seen next to the impressive tower. Originally, all of Bonaire's beacons were tended manually. Today, they are automatic and fueled by solar power.
DIVING
Why is Bonaire a world-class favorite dive adventure destination?
(1) Over 60 dive sites around Bonaire and over 26 around Klein Bonaire
with wrecks, reefs, walls, shore dives and a protected underwater park (since 1979).(2) All dive sites are marked by
mooring buoys. Some sites are retired for several years in order to remain healthy.(3) The visibility
often reaches 130 feet and averages 60--100 feet.(4) Abundance of sea life
of every size and color imaginable! Over 500 species of colorful tropical fish. Over 120 types of coral. All flourishing within a protected marine environment.In the early 1960s, Bonaire enacted legislation to protect its parks and other natural resources. Today the island protects sea turtle eggs and nests, and it bans spear fishing. It is also illegal to break coral, sell it, or take it for any reason from the sea. In 1980, Bonaire established the Bonaire Marine Park to further protect its fish and coral reefs. The attention to preservation allows Bonaire to reign as one of the most serene, intact nature retreats in the Caribbean.
NOTE: Before you pay your $10 annual Park Fee, you will go through about a half-hour presentation/orientation about the Park and dive sites, as well as the park Rules. It's a very informative presentation and well worth the time to absorb as much as possible. One of the best pieces of information you'll come away with is a comprehensive map of the island and the dive sites. There are so many sites, that when you plan your day of shore diving, it is best to ask more about each site. With a rental car and buddy the majority of the sites are easily accessible from shore. Save your boat trips for Klein Bonaire and sites not easily accessible from shore--roughly six sites are boat only. Clear, warm water, and the abundance of a great variety of sea life surrounds Bonaire. Much can be experienced by shore diving. A spectacular, dynamic, marine drama constantly unfolding—shape, motion, color and texture.The Aquaspace website is HERE Cruise Ships Schedule HERE
TIPS WHEN YOU VISIT BONAIRE:
- Be sure to bring sun block; there's not much shade, and bug spray, because there are plenty of mosquitos.
- Water shoes will protect your feet from being cut up by broken coral shards as you get in and out of the water.
- While the crime rate is low on this island, never tempt anyone by leaving personal things in your car--locked or unlocked.
- Bring your own cooler and towels, as there are no refreshment stands or equipment rentals to mar the panoramic settings.
- And, please be aware that Bonaire's waters and shore lines are part of the Bonaire Marine Park, and there's a strict "no take" rule on things like shells. They WILL get confiscated as you go through the security X-ray machines at the airport (witnessed by the piles of conch shells on the confiscation table). Many countries, under the international protection laws known as CITES, have rules to prevent the import (even personal) of items that came from any sort of marine life, shells included.
I hope that this web-tour of Bonaire was able to provide you with a sneak peak of what you can expect to experience when you visit. Hopefully, it will help you to decide on an itinerary for your particular day ashore. Even if you are not an "aqua-nut," you can experience and enjoy the sights and sounds of this pretty island. Please feel free to send me feedback (click here) to this site --or the rest of my sites, i.e.; things I should change; things I should add. And if you have any photographs of Bonaire and would like to add them to our Photo Gallery (at the bottom of each page) please send them to me at the same link. I certainly would appreciate your input and suggestions. Thanks! Sunny 24/7
