
Saint-Jean Cap-Ferrat, the most expensive real estate
in the world attracts the rich and famous. It includes the connecting
deepwater harbour of Villefranche on one side with Beaulieu on the other side.
Saint Jean Cap Ferrat
(pronounced: Saint Jean Cap fair-AT)
Cap Ferrat is a
beautiful peninsula jutting into the Mediterranean, and The Côte d'Azur's
most desirable address. The commune has a population of 2,248 inhabitants
and covers 2.48 square km (0.96 square miles). It is about 3km (1.86
miles) from Villefranche
(30 minutes walking time, and 15 minutes away by car). The village of Saint-Jean was once a small fishing
village with an important port. While fishermen still exist today, much of
the port and the town now cater to the wealthy and the tourist industry.
Today, it still is a place for billionaires: Roman Abramovich, the Russian
oligarch; Sean Quinn, the Irish insurance magnate; and Steve Allan of
Microsoft, all have mansions here… but there is little you will see because
most of them are walled off and gated.
In its history, some of the estates on Cap
Ferrat have hosted a plethora of celebrities such as the likes of King
Leopold II of Belgium, Baroness de Rothschild, Charlie Chaplin, Rainier III,
David Niven, Somerset Maugham, Jean Cocteau, Hubert de Givenchy, Isadora
Duncan, Winston Churchill, French Prime Ministers Maurice Rouvier and
Raymond Barre and many more. Major Berkeley Levett, an English aristocrat
and witness in the infamous Royal Baccarat Scandal, lived in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
with his brewery heiress wife, the former Sibell Bass.
TRANSPORTATION:
There are several means of getting you to Saint
Jean Cap Ferrat; buses, taxis and rental cars. You can take the train
or bus to Beaulieu-sur-Mer and do a reverse walk around the Cap. Taxis
are expensive--but it is your choice! Or walk! (See On Your Own below)
TRAINS: The
quaint, rustic train station is a 5-minute walk right above the beach area
and is accessed by the steps behind the Carpaccio
restaurant. There are many trains going both ways along the coast, though
fewer stop here than at the busier Beaulieu sur Mer station, which is only a
20 minute walk away.
Train service southbound to Monaco and northbound to Nice and Cannes is
frequent and reasonably priced. Note that there are several other stops that the train makes
going in both directions. It takes only 15 minutes on direct trains from
Villefranche-sur-Mer to Monaco-Monte Carlo. Trains transport you from Villefranche's quaint, rustic train station to
nearby Cote d'Azur neighbors Beaulieu-sur-Mer, St. Jean Cap Ferrat, and
Monte Carlo.
BUS: For Bus Routes: Click
HERE Line
#81 will take you to Cap Ferrat.
ON YOUR OWN:
(If you have a rental car, it makes more sense to park the car in the
town of St. Jean-Cap-Ferrat. Bus schedules from Villefranche to St. Jean Cap
Ferrat seem to be sketchy. It would be easier to walk to the Ephrussi de
Rothschild Villa (30 minute walk) where you could pick up bus information
and schedules from Tourist Information Office which is nearby (59 Avenue
Denis Semeria)-- plan your walking tour-- and know when and where the bus
stop is to take you back to Villefranche.
To explore Cap Ferrat on foot:
From the Promenade des Marinieres walk the curve of the
bay away from the town of Villefranche until you reach the end of the car
parking area where you will see a flight of steps to your left, next to the
parking payment machine.
The steps will take you to Avenue Louise Bordes, which brings you past the
gates of the famous Villa Nellcote Bai
(leased by the Rolling Stones during recording "1980's Exile on Main
Street"). In 1919, the villa, since baptized
"Nellcôte," was acquired by the Bordes
family, famous ship-owners specializing in the transport of soda nitrate
between Chile and France. Adding infamy to the residence's
history, Nellcôte served as the headquarters of the local
Gestapo during the Nazi occupation of France in the early
1940s, with the floor vents in the basement of the villa
reportedly being decorated with swastikas
From here, it’s just a short walk to the
magnificent Ephrussi de Rothschild Villa
and its themed gardens located high on a hill on the road leading
into St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. The villa of the Baroness Ephrussi de Rothschild
straddles the centre of the main spine of Cap Ferrat on the Villefranche
side. While the villa is absolutely incredible… the
gardens are really the highlight of the property. The nine gardens are
impeccably manicured and simply stunning with themes: Spanish, Florentine,
Stone Garden, Japanese, Exotic, Rose Garden, Provençal, Sèvres and French.
The entrance to the gardens gives you a magnificent view over Villefranche
harbour so be sure to take your camera!
The villa houses an extensive collection of 18th
century and Impressionist paintings as well as many oriental artifacts. It
gives you an idea how the superrich lived in the early 19th century--in
style. In 1883 Beatrice Rothschild, aged 19, married Maurice Ephrussi, a
Russian banker. In 1905 she bought land in Cap Ferrat next to the estate of
King Leopold II of Belgium, who was none to happy about it as he wanted to
extend his already vast holding. Construction started in 1907 and her dream
home was finished in 1912. Her husband died 4 years later. Beatrice was a
great collector, traveling the world in search of treasures. Upon her death
in 1934 she bequeathed her estate to the Académie des Beaux-Arts de
l'Institut de France. They host the Azuriales Opera Festival every August
here.

Ephrussi de Rothschild Villa and gardens

Cost: 10 Euros which includes a 15 minute intro film (in French with
English subtitles), and the wonderful gardens. For 15 Euros you can also see
Kerylos Villa. Stop for tea and cake: a perfect setting for a piece of paradise that
you’ll probably see nowhere else.
One of the most notorious of royalties in Cap Ferrat was King Leopold II
of Belgium, basking in his riches from Belgian Congo, where he exercised a
brutal colonial regime. He owned a large estate in Cap Ferrat on an
artificial lake and three separate villas for his mistresses. Later in life
he built another villa for his confessor. This villa was later owned by the
writer Somerset Maugham until his death in 1965.
The
main residence is the Villa des Cèdres,
located at 57 Avenue Denis Semeria, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
which has been owned by Marnier-Lapostolle (the makers of Grand Marnier)
since 1924 and is now in part a botanical garden called the Jardin
botanique "Les Cèdres" in an extensive parkland surrounding Les
Cedres.
Part of Leopold's estate housed the
Zoo du Cap Ferrat with 350 species from
flamingos to Zebras. However, in September 2009 the local papers announced the surprising and
imminent closure of Cap Ferrat Zoo with some of the animals heading to Parc
Phoenix and others to Frejus zoo. Its not certain what will happen to the
bulk of the animals. For many years this charming zoo attracted more than
130,000 visitors. Now closed (October 2009) an English property developer,
Robert Bourne, will replace the treasured enclave with a deluxe hotel
and wellness center.
When you are finished with your visit to the villa, you have a choice
(depending on your time frame) to either circle the peninsula on footpaths
(taking between an additional 1-1/2 and 2 hours) or cut across toward the eastern side to
the marina.
Walking Path Around the Peninsula
Near the villa there is a Tourist Information
Office where you can pick up a map and ask about the sentier littoral
(walking path) that completely circles the cape around Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.
The famous coastal path walk is a fourteen kilometer (9 mile) long trek taking you to
the most beautiful spots on the peninsula. The path runs through the thick
pine forests, around the cliffs and to the tip of the Cap, where a beautiful
hotel now stands, surrounded by lush gardens.
Visitors who do not wish to (or can not manage
to) walk throughout the area will find buses to be the next best
mode of transportation to many locations in the area.

Aerial view of Cap Ferrat jutting out from Villefranche
A small footpath leads from the village (near Rothschild Villa) to
the Plage de Passable, a beach unique in being the only sandy beach east of
Antibes. Half the beach is free to the public, and popular with families,
while the other half is run by a small restaurant.
Plage de Passable Beach
As you loop around the footpaths of the peninsula
you come upon the most beautiful of villas, gardens, and vistas. Paradise!
Gardens galore!
The Grand Hotel at the tip of the peninsula
At the tip of Cap Ferrat, you will
find one of the most beautiful palaces in the world, the "Grand Hotel du
Cap" which is set amidst a stunning garden.
Below: Phare du Cap Ferrat, "Phare" is the French word
for a lighthouse.
Interested? €5.5 million for this stone
house with panoramic views of the Bay of Beaulieu and Cap Ferrat. It is
situated along a private path, and has four bedrooms, two bathrooms a garage
and an infinity pool.
The lighthouse lighthouse is open to the public and if one is energetic
enough to climb the 164 steps to the top, the views are magnificent,
allowing one to see into the beautiful gardens of the Cap that are obscured
by fences on ground level.
Finally, from the west-facing side of Cap Ferrat,
you'll be crossing over to the east-facing side of Cap Ferrat where you will emerge at the
little yachting village of St Jean and Pont St Jean, with its restaurants and cafes.
Stroll the harbour edging the port known as "restaurant row."
Stop for refreshment at any number of sidewalk cafes to take in the
lively scene (and sea views to Eze and Monaco). There are numerous restaurants
that string along the harbor with menus posted outside so you can "window
shop" before you make a choice.