VILLEFRANCHE-Page 2

DOCKING: Cruise ships dock at Port de la Santé in Villefranche if they are too large to enter Nice's port facility. Your arrival in Villefranche is right in the center of the medieval city and it's your starting point to discover Villefranche-sur-Mer in the heart of the French Riviera.

You will tender ashore to the small, old, stone wharf that functions as the passenger pier and terminal. All arriving and departing visitors pass through an adjoining, compact terminal building that houses a tourist information desk, clean (free) rest rooms, car rental and tour desks, and small museum exhibits.

Promenade des Marinieres

Once outside, the town is just across the street. A charming esplanade lined with alfresco restaurants and cafes stands poised to capture tourists hungry for some real French dining. Promenade des Marinieres follows the curve of the waterfront around to the right, passing the local hotel and various shops. Over at the eastern end of the street is the local train station, with regular service to all towns along the coast.

Right behind the (pink) Carpaccio Cafe, next to the big tree, are some stairs to take you up to the train station (brown roof).

SIGHTSEEING IN VILLEFRANCHE

Villefranche is very small, and it is easy to get around on foot. Don't miss the Historic District in Villefranche. You can enter it by walking up the stairs just a few steps to the right when you have exited the tender wharf. Once you go up the stairs you will run into the many streets and alleyways that make up the historic district. The small cobblestone alleyways that seem to lead to nowhere will take you to a surprise place with boutiques, gifts shops and restaurants.. if you are willing and able to climb a bit.

Stairs near tender wharf (on left above) lead you to Historic District (right) with its shops and boutiques.

Behind the pastel-colored terraces traversing the yacht-filled waterfront, the main street, Rue du Poilu, opens enchantingly into the latticework of narrow cobbled alleyways--some stepped, some vaulted--that make up the unique old quarter, leading to 14th century Chapelle St Pierre. This medieval church was once used for the storage of fishing nets and is dedicated to the town’s fishermen. It was renovated in 1957, when famed filmmaker/artist Jean Cocteau added lavish modern frescoes of scenes from the life of Peter the Apostle.

Entrance to Historic District Chapelle St Pierre.

In contrast, the 18th century Italian Baroque Church of St. Michel contains an impressively simple crucifix carved from the trunk of a fig tree by an unknown convict.

St. Michel's Church in background Quaint ancient passageways Steps to restaurants and shops

The church of St. Michel, was built in the 14th century and later transformed in the late 18th century to adopt the Italian Baroque style. There are some remarkable works of art, including a painting representing St. Michel, and a carved Christ of the eighteenth century. Also, beside the church there is a quiet tree-lined square called Place Félix Poullan. Place de l'Eglise just below, has a bench circling a beautiful big tree.

These pedestrian-only stone staircases and cobbled pavements follow arched passageways through buildings. It's all quite enjoyable, and you'll feel quite safe walking around.

The vaulted Rue Obscure labyrinth of lighted passages

Most interesting is a passage about a block in front the seafront called la rue Obscure, (literally, "dark street") which is a covered street that runs underneath the buildings. The locals once took shelter in this very street whenever the town was under attack. The vaulted Rue Obscure, built in the 13th century, is all that remains of a path that ran next to the medieval ramparts. Cross streets open out onto the sunny upper village or even the brighter seafront below. With their windows wide open at the height of summer you can hear bits of lively banter and smell the enticing Mediterranean cuisine from within.

On Sundays there’s a wonderful Brocante (‘flea market’) set up in the Old Town (Place Pollonnais), and on Saturday it is the Farmer’s Market.

Nor should you miss seeing the 16th century citadel, up the hill to the left, that commands the port. This is a must-visit for the views alone with charming courtyards, and several free exhibits. The fortifications also house the city hall and other government offices. La Citadelle St-Elme de Villefranche-sur-Mer, as it is officially called, has survived the 1543 Franco-Turkish alliance attack and has been largely intact since then, and has stood as a reminder of a once turbulent history of the peaceful town.

A waterfront promenade follows the base of the cliff below the citadel. If you have a bit of extra time, it's a pleasant leisure activity. You'll find the entrance to the promenade adjacent to the cruise terminal parking lot.
Citadel Entrance

SHOPPING: There is limited shopping in Villefranche's downtown area. If shopping is on your agenda, take the train into Monaco to the south, or Nice or Cannes to the north. However, throughout the historic district you will find many shops offering items of interest to tourists. There’s a variety of stores in Villefranche, from curio and antiques to designer fashions, art, and your favorite soap & fragrance store.

DINING: There are a lot of small restaurants and food stands along the beach in Villefranche. However, I will disclose my favorite--Carpaccio's--for a specific reason. A few years ago we walked to this little outdoor cafe with red and white striped awnings; ordered a Lillet (pronounced : le-LAY) and a baguette and admired the pretty (watercolor rendering) paper placemats of this exact street scene -- which I took home and later framed!. Carpaccio ((kahr-PAH-chee-oh) nurtures its seaside tranquility. I am reminded constantly of Villefranche and its seaside beauty as I gaze at my framed picture each morning in my kitchen. Today, the restaurant has been renovated and redecorated. It now has a rust-pink awning and exterior. I'm not sure that they still have the beautiful paper placemats, but I'm thankful that I picked up this great souvenir of Villefranche!

Watercolor placemat framed from Carpaccio Restaurant of Villefranche.

The renovated Carpaccio's

Try also, La Mère Germaine (Quai Courbet). The menu centers on the sea, including an excellent bouillabaisse. You could also try Le Provençal (4 Avenue Marechal Joffre). La Trinquette (Port de la Darse) is much less expensive, but the food is still quite good.

TRANSPORTATION (TO OTHER RIVIERA TOWNS AND VILLAGES)

     There are several means of getting you around the French Riviera; trains, buses, taxis and rental cars.

TRAINS: The quaint, rustic train station is a 5-minute walk right above the beach area and is accessed by the steps behind the Carpaccio restaurant. There are many trains going both ways along the coast, though fewer stop here than at the busier Beaulieu sur Mer station, which is only a 20 minute walk away.

     Train service to Monaco and Nice and Cannes is frequent and reasonably priced making this an excellent option to explore these cities. Note that there are several other stops that the train makes going in both directions. It takes only 15 minutes on direct trains from Villefranche-sur-Mer to Monaco-Monte Carlo.

     There are some stairs leading up to the platforms. As you climb the stairs, take the tunnel to the other side of the train tracks and then continue your climb until you see the train station. Just buy a return ticket from the counter and validate it on the platform before boarding the train. The eastbound trains travel on the track closest to the station and the westbound trains travel on the track next to the beach, so be sure you are on the right side to get to your destination! Then enjoy the ride as the train curves around the edge of the bay through the tunnels and up the hills, running just above the beach. As it winds along, stopping at the major resorts, each stop will be a postcard moment! Trains transport you from Villefranche's quaint, rustic train station to nearby Cote d'Azur neighbors Beaulieu-sur-Mer, St. Jean Cap Ferrat, and Monte Carlo.

The train station

     Between the cafe and the wall of bougainvilleas are stone steps up to the train station. We took the train to Monaco on one of our cruise excursions. Note: Be sure to check your return trip ticket that the train stops at Villefranche! We didn't-- and it took us to Nice, where we had to hurriedly cross the tracks and head back in the opposite direction on the next train to get back to the port--minutes before the last tender!

Bus: The bus system in the French Riviera is excellent. The Nice-Monaco-Menton bus line has frequent service. There are many buses, the best is probably the 100 for getting to both Nice and Monaco. This runs along the Basse Corniche with the main bus stop being in the centre of town between the pharmacy and Credit Lyonnais Bank. Click here for more information about the routes and times. The bus heading east to Beaulieu Ser Mer - Eze - Monaco - Menton will say "Menton" on it and the bus heading west will say "Nice." Buses travel each route; the Higher Corniche, less frequent. Roughly 5 times a day on Middle Corniche and 4 times per hour on Low Corniche. Get details from the Nice bus station. There are no buses between Eze and LaTurbie, though buses do connect Nice, Monaco with LaTurbie.

Bus #100 Eastbound (Nice - Villefranche - Beaulieu Ser Mer - Eze - Monaco - Menton)

Bus #100 Eastbound runs between Nice and Menton with stops at every important village in between. The bus costs less than two Euros. You simply board the bus, pay the driver and start enjoying.

Bus #100 Westbound (Menton - Monaco - Eze - Beaulieu sur Mer - Villefranche - Nice)

Bus # 100 Westbound back to Eze - Beaulieu ser Mur - Villefranche - Nice you will find it on the main road that fronts the harbor on the east and north sides in Monaco. Just look for the bus stop signs with the number 100 on it. From Monte Carlo the bus will travel westward along the Corniche Moyenne (Middle Corniche), a far more scenic route than the Lower Corniche which passes Eze before descending to earth near Villefranche. Distances here are brief -- something like 18 miles separate Monte Carlo and Villefranche. You will be deposited in a parking lot concealed by the towering, picturesque stone walls of the Citadel of Villefranche.

Buses take all three routes; the train follows the lower corniche, and all three are superb means of seeing the most mountainous stretch of the Côte d'Azure. For all bus routes click HERE

Rental Car: The best route: Drivers would be wise to take the Middle Corniche from Nice or Villefrance to Eze le Village. From there, follow signs to Grand Corniche and LaTurbie. Then finish by dropping down into Monaco.