Dublin, Ireland
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      So much to see... so little time.  Visit the famous Ha’penny (Wellington) Bridge, the lively Temple Bar district, the shopping promenade on South Great Georges Street, Dublin Castle, Christ’s Church, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, St. Stephens Green, and Phoenix Park.  Also enjoy the Joyce exhibit at the National Library and the Dublin Writers’ Museum.  This is one city that was made for "A Walking Tour On Your Own!" But you can also use the very convenient and entertaining open-top HOHO bus. Website: HERE

       

Good Morning, Dublin.  Not too impressive view from our ship...           Grafton Street..so busy!

      Dublin is located on the east coast of Ireland, at the mouth of the River Liffey, which runs through the city. Your cruise ship will probably dock at Alexandra Quay, out near the ferry terminal at the entrance to the River Liffey.
     Usually all ships will give you a transfer to the city center, for about $5 per person, one way - charged to your onboard account.  But you can walk if you choose. If you walk into town  you will notice that the port area is very commercial, lots of big trucks and cranes, containers and not much else to see.  A walk into the city from the cruise pier will take you  about 40 minutes. (2-3 miles).  A cab will cost you a lot more (because of the traffic jams) and cannot guarantee that you will make it back to the ship before it departs, if you don't leave very early.  So we had our  concierge get us passes on the cruise shuttles.  That way we knew it was up to them to get us back home on time for departure.

     The city of Dublin itself isn't too impressive because of the crowds on the streets.  It is difficult to window shop.. and you certainly can't stop to take pictures. The nicer shopping areas are Grafton Street and Henry Streets...and  they are pedestrianized.  So at least you don't have to take your life in your hands as you are rubber-necking the shops.

         

Flower kiosks everywhere.. every flower imaginable!

                 

This was an interesting revelation!  When we asked directions to Henry Street the Irish Doorman (above) said "head for the high needle."  When we asked what it was... he said no one knows but it cost the city 5 million Euros! Someone was on 'needle' when they designed that thing.  It is an ugly attraction for the city."  He was right!

SHOPPING

     The river is spanned by ten bridges, notably O'Connell's Bridge, which links the main thoroughfares of the city.

Northside- We first headed up O'Connell (right) to shop on Henry Street, then backtracked across the Liffey Bridge toward Temple Bar.  Shopping in Dublin focuses on the two main pedestrianized shopping streets; Henry Street on the north side and Grafton Street/Stephen's Green on the south side. The two streets are just either side of the river, a few minutes walk apart, but are somewhat different.

Southside
Grafton Street, located between Trinity College and St Stephen's Green is the more smart shopping area with fashionable stores such as Brown Thomas, the department store catering for many designer showcases, both foreign and local. Dublin's leading and most exclusive jewelers, Weirs, is also here, as well as the most popular of the famous Bewley's Cafés. Other principal shopping streets in the area include Wicklow Street, Dawson Street, and South Great Georges Street. The nearby Powerscourt Town centre is one of the nicer, albeit small, shopping centers in the city. Also close by is The Georges Street Arcade, an indoor market well worth a visit.

      

Crossing the Liffy Bridge to the other side of the river and Grafton Street.

           

Statue of Daniel O'Connell in city center- and Molly Malone statue offering her wares at the top of Grafton Street in Dublin

MOLLY MALONE STATUE AND LEGEND      The Molly Malone statue is located at the end of Grafton Street, opposite Trinity College. Molly Malone was a semi historical/legendary figure who was referred to in the song 'Cockles and Mussels,' a Dublin anthem in every pub.  In the song 'In Dublin's Fair City' she "wheeled her wheelbarrow, through streets broad and narrow."  This is exactly what she is doing here. The statue is very popular with tourists who all take pictures of her and her deep cleavage.  According to that legend she was the most beautiful girl in eighteenth century Dublin. She lived with her parents in the Liberties and sold cockles and mussels in the classy area around Grafton Street and Saint Stephen's Green by day -- and her body to Trinity College students by night.  Locals sometimes call her "The Tart With the Cart" or "The Dish With the Fish". (Leave it to the Irish!!)

     As you come across the bridge stay on Grafton/Westmoreland Streets until you get to the popular Brewleys Pub.

BREWLEY'S PUB

             

     Stroll into Bewleys Café on Grafton, a Dublin institution, go into the back room at the left to enjoy the atmosphere of real fires, velvet banquettes and stained glass windows. ... Feel the warmth and cheeriness of the place (along with the brew) On the day we were there - there were no locals singing-- so we couldn't chime in with "Molly Malone"! But after couple of Heinekens and we were a happy couple!  Appetizers included Irish bread, pate, sauces and olives!  Delicious!

TRINITY COLLEGE An aerial view of the expanse of Trinity College.        

     Continue on Grafton until you enter the hallowed gateway of Trinity College and pass through its elegant 18th and 19th century courtyards and greens.  Admire the Old Library building, now believed to be the largest single library chamber in the world (internal visits to the Old Library and the famous Book of Kells may be made independently after the walk).  Upon leaving the campus a stroll through the halls of the National Gallery of Ireland will bring you out, rather unexpectedly, into a district of splendid Georgian squares, long elegant terraces, tranquil parks and magnificent government institutions.

    

Trinity College is located on College Green opposite the former Irish Houses of Parliament (now a branch of the Bank of Ireland). The campus occupies 47 acres , with many attractive buildings, both old and new, ranged around large courts (known as "squares") and two playing fields.  You will pass by many of these buildings on your walking tour of Dublin.

ST. PATRICK'S CATHEDRAL
     
The courtyards and gardens of Dublin Castle reveal their own treasures and surprises including medieval towers, a section of city wall and one of the most outstanding museums in the world, the Chester Beatty Library Galleries. Moving on through an historic former 17th/18th century Huguenot area you will wander past a modern apartment building which uniquely features scenes from Gulliver's Travels, that great work penned by the one-time Dean of St Patrick's, Jonathan Swift. A lovely park, laid out and paid for by the famous Guinness family, will afford a magnificent panoramic view and great photo opportunity of St Patrick's Cathedral. It was founded by a Norman archbishop in the 12th century at the very site where St Patrick is reputed to have baptized the people of the area in the 5th century. In the park there is also a showpiece called the Literary Parade which highlights the pantheon of famous Dublin writers, from Oscar Wilde to George Bernard Shaw to James Joyce. Find out how the world-famous brewery of Guinness helped to lift this area from depressing slums into a reinvigorated community relocated into quality housing. The walk will then take you around the neighbors of St Patrick's including the deanery, a police station housed in a one-time medieval archbishop's palace and, subject to it being open,  visit Marsh's Library, Ireland's first public library (and believed to be haunted!).

TEMPLE BAR DISTRICT

Dublin's Cultural Quarter. Located in the heart of Dublin's City Centre, some of Dublin's best night spots, restaurants and unusual shops line these narrow, cobbled streets running between the Bank of Ireland and Christ Church Cathedral.

DUBLIN CASTLE - Palace Street off Dame Street

     Built between 1208 and 1220, this complex represents some of the oldest surviving architecture in the city, and was the center of English power in Ireland for over seven centuries until it was taken over by the Irish Free State in 1922. Highlights include the 13th-century record tower, the largest visible fragment of the original Norman castle and the State Apartments, once the residence of English viceroys and now the focal point for government ceremonial functions, including the inauguration of Ireland's presidents. The newest developments for visitors are the Undercroft, and excavates site on the grounds where an early Viking fortress stood, and the treasury, built between 1712 and 1715, believed to be the oldest surviving purpose-built office building in Ireland. It houses a new visitor centre in its vaulted basement.

     So it is time to head back to the ship after an interesting and enlightening, but tiring day.

     And as they say in Ireland, "I find there’s no creaking body part or fearful, aching heart that a pint of Guinness and a soft Irish ballad can’t soothe." I've finally come home-- to Ireland, the home of my ancestors... and now I understand where the kind hearts, joviality, humor and laughter comes from.  Thank you Ireland, for my family!

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