Venice, Italy
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Venice  General_Tips
 
 
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DINING IN VENICE

 

 

     Venice offers many places where you can have your lunch, dinner or simply a break during the day. Eating and drinking in Venice is quite expensive, but if you do as the Venetians do, you can enjoy good food and fine wine without spending too much, by choosing, for example, the "bacari".

     To go for "Shadows" means to go and drink a good glass of wine in good company; what most Venetians  do as soon as they end work. They head for a bacaro (wine bar) before dinner, for a glass of wine and snacks, from 6 to 7:30pm before going home for dinner. The bаcari were often frequented by cultivated men; writers and musicians like Stendhal, Richard Wagner and Carl Goldoni.

 

     Bacaro is a typical Venetian bar place, usually small, very simple and with wood furniture. It's not exactly an osteria (restaurant) nor a wine bar, but a unique kind of place, with its own warm atmosphere. Having a snack in bacari is an established habit in Venice.   Groups of men huddle in doorways or cram into a small, dimly-lit room or at a table outside, totally occupied in conversation, balancing an overflowing plate with snacks in one hand while sipping wine from a glass held in the other hand. These hole-in-the-wall-eateries provide delicious local snacks and wines at very reasonable prices. Just remember not so sit down, especially if a seat is offered as the unsuspecting tourist will be charged more than double if they are seated when they eat!
 

Your Own Bacari Tour

 

     Instead of having dinner, organize a little tour of three or four different bacari and enjoy the real Venice.  A traditional tour could start from a famous bacaro called Cantina Do Morisituated in a sotoportego (San Polo 429) close to Rialto market. From here you can continue to Campo San Giacometto.  A 2-minute walk from Rialto Bridge you'll find Bancogirois; a small historic place where you can eat and drink admiring the Grand Canal. After that, cross the Rialto Bridge, and stop at Alla Botte, close to Campo San Bartolomeo. Last bacaro of the tour could be one of the oldest of Venice, Osteria Alla Vedova, located along Strada Nuova, in Calle del Pistor, also known as Ca DOro and popular for its polpette (fried meatballs with garlic).
     When you go to several bacari, skipping dinner altogether - in the Veneto dialect this is referred to as "andare a ombre e cicheti." A typical cicheti (chee-keh-tee) menu might consist of fried fish (usually calamari), polpette (fried meatballs made of veal, potatoes and spices), folpeti (little boiled octopus served with a delicate and aromatized extra-virgin olive oil and lemon), baccal mantecato (a mix of codfish, olive oil, garlic and parsley served on a piece of bread, called crostino), sarde in sar (marinated sardines) or a half boiled egg with an anchovy on top..... all the while sipping ombra... who needs dinner?

      The experience of a bacari tour can be enjoyed by everyone, Venetians and tourists alike. Bacari are opened from mid-morning to late at night.

 

Venetian Food and Drink Glossary

 

Antipasto

The appetizer, “before the pasta,” essential in Italy and in Venice.

 

Arancino

Stuffed rice balls (about the size of an orange, hence the name) that have been coated with bread crumbs and deep-fried. They are most often a part of a restaurant antipasto, but you can also buy them from side-walk vendors while shopping or just taking a stroll.

Articioco (ar-tee-CHOKE-oh).  

A very musical name for the artichoke!

 

Baccalà Mantecato

A classic recipe from Veneto.   Salt cod that is cooked and seasoned and made into a creamed paste to serve on canapés. A specialty in good taverns on which Venice prides itself.

 

Bigoli

Big, fat spaghettis made with buckwheat flour, but are more commonly made with whole wheat flour now. Traditionally, duck eggs are used for the pasta.

 

Bisato

A popular Venetian entrée, -- eel!

 

Bisi

A “laughing” regional name for small peas, called Piselli in the rest of Italy.

 

Bovoletti

Forbidden to the British men -- snails.

 

 

Bussolai Buranei

Dry cakes that are dipped into a liqueur-like wine. If you really want to live as a true Venetian, they recommend you also eat it with pieces of Parmesan.

 

Canocia

The sea cicada.

 

Cape Sante

The good old fashioned Venetian scallop.

 

Castradina

Dried meat of sheep.

 

Castraure

Small artichokes which are found in the spring.

 

Cicchetti

  Tapas eaten standing at the bar in tavern.

 

Crostino

(crusty in Italian)  The canapé or toasted bread.

 

 

Fegato alla Veneziana

This is a signature Venetian dish. The first recipe was found in the book "Apicio Moderno" published in Venice in 1790. The most well known recipe is for Venetian style calf's liver cooked with onions.

 

Folpo

  Octopus.

 

Fortagia --is an omelette.

 

Fragolino

A unique semi-sparkling wine of exceptional fruit with a pronounced flavor of strawberries, hence its name, Fragolino, which is Italian for strawberry.

 

Granceola

A big and tasty crab, typical of Mediterranean Sea.

 

Luganega

A Long sausage, seasoned with coriander, lemon and orange.

 

Masaneta

  She Crab presented at table “dressed” with its shell.

 

Moeche

  It is necessary to be in Venice in spring or in autumn to eat it. It is a true Venetian specialty. Soft-shell crabs are caught at molting time (spring and fall) and fried in an egg-and-Parmesan batter. Those of the spring have better flavor than in autumn.

 

Musetto

  A pork sausage which is often accompanied by mashed potatoes.

 

Nervetti

  A salad of boiled beef served with onions.

 

Ombra

Literally speaking, shade. It is simply a glass of wine. The name is due to the fact that many vendors sell it in the shade of the Bell tower on the piazza San Marco.

 

Ossocollo

A sausage based on pork backbone.

 


 

Pasta e fagioli

  Soup, rather thick, with beans and pasta.

 

Risi E Bisi

A favorite of the rice-loving Venetians, the soup called rice and peas is so thick that it's sometimes mistaken for risotto. The traditional dish for the feast-day of St. Mark.

 

Rumegal--  tripe.

 

 

Salumeria-- a fine delicatessen establishment.

 

Sarde in Saor

A delightful sardine dish developed for sailors spending long months at sea. The cooked fish marinates in a fragrant sauce of vinegar, onions and wine for at least a day before serving and is served cold with pine nuts.

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Secondo

Antipasto starter, Il Primo is the first dish, Il it Secondo: the second dish.

 

Sgroppino

  This delightful cold beverage is a well-kept secret among Venetians, a mixture of Prosecco with lemon sorbet and some Vodka.

 

Sopressa

A large salami infused with garlic

 

Spritz

A special Venetian aperitif based on white wine of bitter and seltzer water. It goes down nicely, often sipped on coffee terraces or cafés. It is offered three ways: Campari (bitter), in Cynar (some liqueur of artichoke what makes the Spritz still a little more bitter than with Campari) or the mild softer version, in Aperol.

 

Zaleto

A yellow dried cake made raisins, lime and orange peels. They can also be dipped in the wine.

 

 
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