THE SELF-GUIDED WALKING TOUR -
WEST #1
WALL, FORTS and MUSEUMS: For History buffs and exercise
enthusiasts. (4 hours)
Cruise ship docked right downtown in Old San Juan
Follow the numbers from Cruise Ship Pier
#1 - When you get off the ship, turn left and go to the end of the street to La Casita, which houses a tourism information center. The building is located close to the cruise ship piers at Plaza de la Darsena. Pick up your tour map and a copy of Que Pasa, the official guide to Puerto Rico--and start your engines!
La Casita (called the Little House, a miniature 1937 neoclassical structure)
#3 - Plaza de Hostos stands just in front of the Plaza Dársena, and guests will find arts and crafts, the traditional piña coladas, and several other locally-made traditional deserts for sale from kiosks dotting the square. A weekend craft market surrounds La Casita. The craft market's schedule may vary according to cruise ship's itineraries. On Saturday and Sunday (late afternoon and evening) the area around the La Casita is a popular spot as local artisans display their crafts and local musicians fill the air with traditional music. On display at the Weekend Craft Market is some of the best works of island artists from all across Puerto Rico. Items for sale include jewelry, leathers, soaps, paintings, along with the requisite tee shirt. Be aware that the weekend Craft Market can be very crowded when the cruise ships come to town.
Sample a free drink courtesy of ‘Rums of Puerto: La Casita is open daily from 8 am - 8 pm, but the free drinks only start at 1 pm and are not available on Thursday and Friday. At Casa Don Q Puerto Rico, located across the street from Pier 1, you can learn about Destilería Serrallés, a rum distillery established in 1865… and sample its award-winning products.
#4 - Paseo de la Princesa Leave the crowds behind and make your way left onto the Paseo de la Princesa and prepare for captivation. Continue left down the Paseo de la Princesa from La Casita with the San Juan Bay on your left. This lovely tree-lined promenade has attractive gardens, benches, monuments and sculptures and a nice shady restaurant. You will usually find some kiosk vendors, and clean public bathrooms (50¢)
As you continue along the Paeso, you will come to La Princesa on your right. In front of La Princesa is a sculpture of one of the island's most revered leaders. This sculpture of a sitting lady on a park bench is Doña Felisa Gautier, mayor of San Juan for 22 years - from 1946 to 1968 and the first female mayor of San Juan. She was much beloved by the people. Her museum #9 is at Caleta de 51 At Recinto Oeste San Juan just inside the gate.
This lovely gray-and-white building was once the San Juan jail. The Old San Juan Jail served for centuries as one of the most feared prisons in the Caribbean. (Notice that the criminals were kept outside the city walls!) - La Princesa is no longer a jail. It is the home of the Puerto Rico Tourism Company. Take a little time and go inside. The building is air-conditioned and houses an ever-changing collection of art and exhibits of works by Puerto Rican artists. Gallery hours are Monday through Friday from 9 am to noon and 1 to 4 pm, and admission is free. Ask for a tour of the jail portion, or at least get a quick explanation, then go out to the back courtyard to the right to see the jail cells . It is open weekdays.
The Raices Fountain
Continue past the jail towards the Raices Fountain; a bronze sculpture fountain which symbolizes the island’s cultural roots. The Raices (Roots), sculpted in 1992 by the Spanish artist Luís Sanguino, depicts the Amerindian, African, and Spanish origins of Puerto Rico as human figures, with cavorting dolphins. This is a great photo opportunity spot.
#6 - THE CITY WALL Past the fountain the Paseo La Princesa continues to follow the city wall and the San Juan Bay. The walkway curves to the right and leads you eventually to #7 - The San Juan Gate (city gate). You have a choice at this point to either continue on the walk outside of the city wall towards El Morro, or go through the gate into the city.
The walk towards El Morro is nice with some great photo opportunities of El Morro, but unfortunately it is a dead end and you will need to retrace your steps back to the San Juan Gate. If you choose the walk along the wall, the trail is called the Paseo del Morro. This paseo is open 6:00 am-10:00 pm daily. It is 3/4 miles long, one way. This walk follows along the city wall below El Morro fort. You will be able to get many great photos of El Morro, and the Guaritas (guard towers). These walls were once part of one of the most impregnable fortresses in the New World. You will be walking in a hot spot with no trees for shade, but there are water fountains along the way. You cannot walk off the trail, it is monitored by guards. You will see many cats on this path. They are protected by the Parks Department - do not touch or feed them.
#7 - THE CITY GATE
The City Gate is the only remaining city gate. It was one of six original massive wooden doors that, centuries ago, were closed at sundown to protect the residents. Outside there is a statue honoring Queen Isabella of Spain. The pretty red-painted Puerta de San Juan or San Juan Gate is where you re-enter the city. Above the gate is inscribed “Benedictus qui venit in nomine domini”- Latin for “blessed is he who comes in the name of the Lord.” As you walk through, notice how thick the wall is (about 15-18 feet) The walls are not made of solid stone; two rows of stone blocks and sandstone were laid with mortar leaving a hollow center. The interior was filled with construction rubble (broken brick, chunks of limestone and sandstone) and dirt.
THE WALLED WALK INSIDE
As you go through the gate you have a few choices. You can turn right along Shore Line Trail and head south where you will reach La Fortaleza, Palacio de Santa Catalina, the Governor's Mansion then retrace your steps past the gate and head north to the fort. Or, shoppers, you can go straight up into the city's center.
#8 - LA FORTALEZA
To get to La Fortaleza, turn immediately right and walk uphill along Calle Recinto del Oeste. The wrought-iron gates at the street's end, which will probably be guarded by a pair of attendants, lead to the oldest governor’s mansion in the western hemisphere. Completed in 1540, La Fortaleza has housed 170 governors of Puerto Rico. It was also the island's first true fortress. La Fortaleza, which means "The Fortress," also goes by the name of Palacio de Santa Catalina, or "Santa Catalina Palace."
Its' distinctive blue-and-white
neoclassical façade was built in 1540 but was not completed until 1846, when
it became the exclusive residence of the governors. Originally there was
only one circular tower at the corner of four walls surrounded by a large
patio. Guided tours take you through the sumptuous interiors of the public
areas. See the exquisite Hall of Mirrors, the informal Dining Room and the
Blue Room, the Governor's formal reception area and rooms furnished in the
style of the period. Notice the broken, old mahogany clock that stands in a
corridor of the mansion. The story goes.. just before relinquishing the
building (and the island), the last Spanish governor paused in front of this
clock and struck its face with his sword, stopping time to note the very
last moment of Spanish rule in Puerto Rico.
The mansion and gardens are open to the public Monday -
Friday from 9 am - 3 pm. Tours of public rooms (available depending on
events) and gardens: $3 Adult. Tours alternate in English and Spanish.
La Fortaleza from city-side
You can also reach the mansion from the ship by walking up two blocks until you get to Calle La Fortaleza, turn left and go to the end of the street.
#10 - PLAZUELA de LA ROGATIVA
As you retrace your steps along Calle
Recinto del Oeste from La Fortaleza, walking first downhill and then uphill
for about a block, you will reach Caleta de las Monjas. Fork left until you
see a panoramic view and a contemporary statue marking the center of
Plazuela de La Rogativa
straight ahead. La Rogativa means "The Procession," and the sculpture
shows a procession of faithful Catholics holding torches and crosses aloft.
In 1797 during a British invasion, Puerto Rico's
Governor DeCastro requested a prayer procession to invoke heaven's help in
defeating the British. So many candles were lit during the procession it
scared off the attackers. As the legend has it, Sir Ralph Abercrombie, after
seeing the figures in the distance believed they were Spanish reinforcements
and gave up the attack.
#11 -
CASA ROSADA (Pink
House)
Continue westward, passing between a pair
of urn-capped gateposts. You'll be walking parallel to the crenellations of
the 17th-century city walls. The cool, tree-shaded boulevard will split;
take the right-hand fork and pass just above the pink walls of
Casa
Rosada (Pink House).
Built in the early 1812, the Casa Rosa (Pink House) served as a barracks for the Spanish militia. Today it operates as a day care center for the children of employees of the Government of Puerto Rico. This beautiful, well restored home is a photographers dream both for its interesting architecture and the pink color. The Casa Rosa cannot usually be entered by the general public, however if you ask nicely, you may be lucky enough to be admitted. The Casa Rosa should be part of any walking tour visitors may undertake in old San Juan.
