SHOPS, RESTAURANTS, MUSEUMS through central San Juan: (2-3 hours)
ANTIGUO MANICOMIO INSULAR
After your visit with El Morro behind you, retrace your steps through the sun-drenched, treeless grassland of the Calle del Morro to the point where you stood when you first saw the fortress. To get to the main shopping streets you will be heading south on del Morro Road.
Right in front of you is the Antiguo Manicomio Insular with its red dome standing out as an remarkable example of adaptive use. In 1854 the Spanish king decreed that this structure be built as an insane asylum. Converted to a U.S. army barracks after the Spanish-American War, it has functioned since 1965 as the Puerto Rican Academy of Fine Arts. Graceful and elegant iron fences flank a pair of courtyards centered around splashing fountains.
ASILO de BENEFICENCIA ("Home for the Poor")
As you cross the street from Antiguo Manicomio Insular (going south) you will see the stately neoclassical building (painted buff with fern-green trim), called the Asilo de Beneficencia. The home was built 1840s for the indigent people.
Asilo de Beneficencia, has two attractive interior patios displaying spartan formality. Today it houses the administrative offices of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture, with several changing exhibition galleries and an interesting room filled with pre-Columbian artifacts. The galleries are open Wednesday to Sunday from 9 am to 4:30 pm, with free admission.
CASA BLANCA
Casa Blanca is located at: Calle San Sebastián #1, only about a three minute walk from El Morro. It was built on a hill, and the stone walkway that guests use to arrive today, puts them at the first floor of the two-story addition, meaning the original home is actually below them
Continue walking uphill to the small sloping, formal plaza at the top of the street. On the right side, within a trio of buildings, is Casa Blanca. Casa Blanca is the oldest continuously occupied residence in the Western Hemisphere. It houses a museum and Taino (native Indian) artifacts. A walk through this historic home gives you a glimpse of the life of Puerto Rico's founding family and an indication of how a wealthy residence of the old city would have looked during the turbulent 16th and 17th centuries. Casa Blanca, recently restored, was actually built in 1521 by the son-in-law of Ponce De Leon, the first governor of Puerto Rico. The parcel of land was given to Ponce de León as a reward for services rendered to the Crown. However, construction of the house was finished in 1521, 2 years after Ponce De Leon's death. His descendants lived in the house for centuries. In 1779 the building was taken over by the Spanish military, then used later by the United States as a residence for military commanders (1898-1966). Today the mansion serves as National Historic Monument, housing a museum of 16th, 17th and 18th century history.
Each room is decorated in a style associated with a period of the house's history. Although the furniture is not original (most of it was destroyed when the Dutch seized and set fire to San Juan), visitors to Casa Blanca today will see the house as it likely looked while the Ponce de Leon family called it home. On the first floor, the museum is furnished with antiques, paintings and artifacts. With its high ceilings, dark wood floors and large unadorned windows overlooking the harbor, it has an elegant, oddly almost contemporary feel.
Guided tours Tuesday-Friday by appointment. A tour guide takes you through various rooms and a stroll through the lovely terraced gardens outside. (Check out the tiny little garita near the entrance). Although the hours are listed as 9 a.m. to 4 p.m., Tuesday through Saturday, the museum is closed 12 to 1 p.m. for lunch. Tour hours can be haphazard . Admission is $3 for all, but you can tour the gardens for free. There are restroom facilities on the property for visitors. The museum itself is handicap accessible, but certain areas of the garden are not.
CUARTEL de BALLAJA
After your visit to Casa Blanca, exit by the compound's front entrance and walk downhill, retracing your steps for a half block, and head toward the massive and monumental tangerine-colored building on your right, the Cuartel de Ballajá.
This three-story 19th-century military barracks of Ballajá once housed troops from Spain along with their families, in a setting reminiscent of the most austere and colossal monasteries of old Spain. The building could accommodate up to 1,000 people. It is still the largest structure in the Americas erected by Spanish engineers. It was declared a National Historic Monument in 1954. On the building's second floor is the Museo de las Américas, a repository for Caribbean art.
PLAZA del QUINTO CENTENARIO
After you visit Cuartel de Ballajá, exit through the extremely narrow eastern door, where you'll immediately spot one of the most dramatic modern plazas in Puerto Rico, the Plaza del Quinto Centenario. This plaza is a terraced tribute to the European colonization of the New World and one of the most elaborate and formal piazzas in Puerto Rico.
Opened in October 12, 1992, this plaza is the cornerstone of Puerto Rico's commemoration of the 500th anniversary of Columbus' discovery of the New World. It has a monumental totem pole which rises 40 feet. It is sculptured in black granite and (purportedly) actual Taino ceramic pieces, and symbolizes the earthen and clay roots of American history. It is the work of Jaime Suarez, one of Puerto Rico's foremost artists. Down the steps, you will see a fountain that the kids love to play in. You will find the Children’s Museum - a fun interactive stop for kids - at the foot of this park.
PLAZA de SAN JOSE
Walk a short block to the southeast to reach the ancient borders of the Plaza de San José. Located at the intersection of San Sebastián and Del Cristo Street, the plaza is a favorite meeting place for young and old alike. The center of this plaza is dominated by a bronze statue of Juan Ponce de León that was cast from English cannons captured during a naval battle in 1797. This century old plaza is host to the colonial-style Iglesia de San Jose, the San Jose Church. Until he was moved to the San Juan Cathedral in 1913, Juan Ponce de León was buried for 300 years inside the San José Church. Dating back to the 16th century, murals that remained buried under layers of concrete were later added to the church’s walls. It features many historic religious artifacts and a remarkable series of vaulted ceilings. Ponce de Leon's coat of arms hangs above the altar.
The plaza is skirted by a number of historic buildings, local bars and restaurants They include El Patio de Sam, where locals occupy virtually every nook and bar stool, especially after sundown. Also appealing is El Boquerón, which is in a narrow storefront midway between the two. Stop at any of these places for some refreshment. Click on RESTAURANTS below.
Around the periphery of the square, notice other important sites: the Museo de Pablo Casals and the Casa de los Contrafuertes (House of the Buttresses). Casa de los Contrafuertes is a traditional Spanish-style home, which holds the Museum of Colonial Architecture and the Museum of the Puerto Rican Family. This is believed to be the oldest residence left in Old San Juan, dating back to the early 18th century. Open Wed-Sun, 9 am - 4:30 pm. Also within Casa de los Contrafuertes you will find the Museo de Nuestra Raíz Africana (African Heritage Museum), features African artifacts, including masks, maps, musical instruments, and paintings. Note, that descriptions in the African Heritage Museum are written only in Spanish. Open Mon-Fri from 9:30 am to 5 pm, and Sat from 10 am to 5 pm. Admission free.
Pablo Casals Museum houses memorabilia of the famous cellist and Calle de San Sebastia one of the oldest private colonial homes now a Pharmacy Museum
Exit from the plaza's southwestern corner and walk downhill along one of the capital's oldest and best-known streets, Calle del Cristo (also known as Calle Cristo). Two blocks later, at the corner of Calle las Monjas, you'll find the venerable walls of:
EL CONVENTO
Puerto Rico's most famous hotel came majestically back to life when it was restored and reopened in 1997 and it continues to offer some of the most charming and historic hotel experiences.
Six suites and 58 rooms occupy the top four floors of the yellow-hued hotel. The magnificent courtyard, where a 300-year-old Nispero fruit tree from Spain still stands, is home to the hotel's restaurant Patio Del Nispero. It is also accessible via a private entrance in the original courtyard. Rooms and suites are individually decorated with Andalusian tile floors, mahogany beams, throw rugs and hacienda-style furniture. Each room has a view of Old San Juan or its bay. The first two floors feature restaurants, ten new guest rooms and meeting rooms interconnected by a series of black-and-white-tile hallways.
The garden terrace, overlooking the Plaza de las Monjas and historic San Juan cathedral, offers a tranquil atmosphere for relaxing and enjoying evening cocktails. Additionally, the complimentary wine and cheese reception on the balcony patio outside El Picoteo is well done and you will surely appreciated the complimentary coffee in the morning. Follow that by retreating to the flower-bedecked rooftop pool terrace, with its spectacular panoramic views of Old San Juan, and luxuriate under the warm tropical sun, take a dip in the plunge pool or soothe your woes in the Jacuzzi. This small boutique hotel celebrates the old—with its address in historic San Juan indicates—while embracing all the comforts modern travelers expect. Original Property Opened: 1651. Rate Range: Standard: $235.00 to $365.00: Superior: $265.00 to $385.00: Deluxe: $295.00 to $420.00: Suites: $600.00 to $1,600.00
Website: www.elconvento.com
Diagonally across the street from El Convento lies the island's most famous church and spiritual centerpiece.
CATHEDRAL de SAN JUAN
This distinguished landmark has in recent years been restored to its original Spanish beauty. A favorite stop for tourists, this marvelous cathedral was built in 1592, on the same site of the previous cathedral that was destroyed by a hurricane around 1584. Located on Calle Cristo, this gothic and neoclassical structure is situated in front of the historic Hotel El Convento in the heart of Old San Juan, and the Plazuela de Las Monjas (the Nun's Square). Besides the cathedral's religious significance, history buffs can view the relics of Ponce de León that are preserved here in a marble crypt. In 1908 the body of Ponce de León was disinterred from the nearby Iglesia de San José and placed in a marble tomb near the transept, where it remains today. Mass is offered daily in Spanish.
Nuns' Square
The cathedral faces Plaza de las Monjas (the Nuns' Square), a shady spot where you can rest. Locals sit down for an afternoon conversation on the many park benches in the square.
Walk 2 more blocks southward along Calle del Cristo, through one of the most attractive shopping districts in the Caribbean. After passing Calle Fortaleza, look to your left for the
CENTRO NACIONAL de ARTES POPULARES y ARTESANIAS
This building is the headquarters of the Institute of Puerto Rican Culture. As such, it is assigned to protect the island's precious heritage in arts, crafts, music, and literature. Centro Nacional scans the islands for artisans who still practice time-treasured crafts and do so with considerable skill. It no longer sells crafts on these premises, but it uses an outlet on the same street, next to the Iglesia de San José. This store, a superb repository of native crafts, sells crafts of high-quality work. The prices aren't cheap, but the work merits the tab. Of special note are handmade items such as paintings, leather work and handwoven items. There is quite a selection and if you feel up to the challenge, you may wish to practice your bargaining skills.
Continue to the southernmost tip of Calle del Cristo (just a few steps away), to the wrought-iron gates that surround a chapel no bigger than an oversize newspaper kiosk called:
CAPILLA de CRISTO
This beautiful old chapel is Capilla del Cristo (Cristo Chapel). It was built in 1753. There are different versions of the story "why" it was built - either by a thankful father whose his son lived after he and his horse fell over the wall, or by a sad father whose son died after falling over the wall on his horse. Either way, the alter is made from thousands of the silver "milagros" that are given as offerings for a wanted miracle. Open Monday, Tuesday, and Wednesday from 10:30 am - 2 pm. If you are lucky enough to be there when it is open, take a close look at the alter. The altar here is dedicated to the "Christ of Miracles."
PIGEON PARK
Close
to Cristo Chapel is the Parque de las Palomas (Pigeon Park). If you have an
aversion to birds (pigeons) you might want to skip this part. Pigeon Park is
the place to go to feed the pigeons, but you also get amazing views from the
top of the city walls.
Retrace your steps north for about a block along Calle del Cristo. Turn right on Calle Fortaleza. One block later, turn left onto Calle de San José, which leads to the site of the capital's most symmetrical and beautiful square:
PLAZA de ARMAS
Plaza de Armas (arms square) on San José Street is Old San Juan's main square. It once served as the site of military drills. Statues representing the four seasons (all over 100 years old) make up the centerpiece of this main meeting place. If you are visiting during the holidays, head for this square just a few blocks away from your cruise ship to share in a wonderful celebration. This popular gathering place is the site of the city's Christmas tree during the holidays. Today, Plaza de Armas square is an open space where some of Old San Juan's main thoroughfares meet.
Plaza de Armas 4-season statues and Intendencia
This broad and open Spanish-style plaza was the original main square of Old San Juan and the very hub of the city. It has a lovely fountain with 19th-century statues representing the four seasons. In times gone by, families with unmarried daughters would parade around the square. It was a proper way for chaperoned young women to catch the eye of young, available men. Two important buildings flanking this square are the neoclassic Intendencia (which houses some offices of the U.S. State Department) and San Juan's Alcaldía. Casa Alcaldia (City Hall) stands imposingly in front of the Plaza de Armas in Old San Juan (above). It houses the city's Mayor and his staff. Its arches are flanked by two towers, very similar in design to Madrid's City Hall in Spain. Construction was accomplished in stages between 1604 and 1789. Today, the building contains a tourist information area downstairs and an exhibit and art gallery on the first floor. Visitors are welcome to tour and admission is free.
Relax on one of the benches if you like, and then leave the square eastward, along Calle San Francisco until you get to Calle de la Tanca and head back south to the cruise ship pier.